Greek Orthodox lenten favorite eases mushy green bean phobia with olive oil, herbs, and history

Kalofagas, the online headquarters of Toronto-based chef-author Peter Minaki, has been one of my favorite sources of can’t-miss Greek recipes and cooking techniques for a decade.

Fassolakia ladera is one of the dishes I make every year. Greek Orthodox fasting before major church calendar events is not just meatless but dairy-free, making main course vegan cooking a survival skill.

Before meeting this dish, I thought mushy green beans were uniformly bad, the result of canned vegetable and cafeteria experiences in my youth. A low, slow simmer among herbs and olive oil lends these beans a sweet lushness that turned me around on squishy beans.

Potatoes soak up savor in the simmer, too, giving the dish heft. Herbal greenery of some sort is needed, so if you don’t have fresh parsley or dill, basil would not be out of line. This is a recipe to save for when your late-season green beans are too overgrown and knobby to present as green beans American style.

One more note: if you’re considering making this dish and subbing vegetable oil for olive oil, I would advise against it. Usually they’re swappable, but vegetable oil doesn’t deliver the luxe feeling of the optimum recipe.

Fassolakia ladera (Φασολάκια λαδερά)

Based on this Kalofagas recipe

3 pounds green beans

½ cup olive oil

1 cup onions, sliced

¼ cup smashed garlic

1 cup fresh parsley, chopped stems and all

¼ cup fresh mint, chopped leaves, or 2 tablespoons dried 

½ cup fresh dill, chopped stems and all, or 3 tablespoons dried

2 cups tomatoes, chopped fresh, puree or canned chopped 

4-5 whole allspice berries (optional)

2 cups hot water

4 cups potatoes, cut into big (1-½ inch) chunks

Salt and pepper

In a large pot over medium heat, heat oil adding garlic and onions and saute until onions are translucent but not yet browned, about 5 minutes.

Add tomatoes, and allspice (if using), plus a modest amount of salt. (You can always add more later, but we want some to soak into the veg now.) Simmer until fragrant, about 5 minutes.

Turn heat to high and add herbs, beans, potatoes, and water, stirring to thoroughly combine. When it comes to a boil, turn the heat down to low simmer, and cover.

Stir every 10 minutes or so. If it looks thirsty, add a little more water. It’s ready when the potatoes are tender and the beans start falling apart in the verdant tomato gravy, 40-60 minutes. Taste and add salt if needed.

Ladle into bowls. As Kalofagas chef-author Peter Minaki notes, fassolakia ladera is best served with crusty bread and feta cheese.

#30#