Cones on Connecticut, Orso Nero pops up on Hertel, and where to find South American cuisine

Escovitch and oxtails have joined the West Side Bazaar menu, with Dwayne Fitzroy Jones launching Chef BigWayne Jamaican Cuisine to join the other seven restaurant operations at the  1432 Niagara St. community center.

Born in Montego Bay, Jones worked his way from dishwasher to cook at the Iberostar all-inclusive resort complex. Jones followed his wife-to-be Brianna back to Buffalo, where he launched his first restaurant operation March 1.

Ackee puffs ($5.25), codfish fritters ($4.25) and beef patties ($3.25) are some of the BigWayne starters.

Dinners come with rice and pigeon peas or white rice, vegetable, plantains, and faintly sweet frycakes called festivals. Jerk chicken ($23.75), oxtails ($26.75), curry vegetable stew ($23.75), and escovitch fish ($30), sauced with chile vinegar, lead the pack.

Desserts ($5.25-$7.25) include banana rum cake, Jamaican fruitcake, sweet potato pudding.

Egyptian, Italian, Malaysian, Burmese, East African, Vietnamese, and Japanese restaurant operations are already serving at West Side Bazaar.

Check out Chef BigWayne’s menu here, and you can follow him on TikTok, Facebook, and Instagram. The Bazaar is open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, same as its downtown sibling at 617 Main St.

REVIEW: Toutant, the broadly Southern restaurant on Ellicott Street, has the highest satisfaction rating of any restaurant in Buffalo. That’s not just my opinion. That’s the results of after-action reports from scores of diners who have contributed reports to my databank. Even among the restaurants I love in Buffalo, Toutant’s combination of classic dishes made better than you remember, respect for local producers, and sparks of playful discovery makes it a can’t-miss Buffalo restaurant. (Later today, for paid subscribers.)

OPENINGS & CLOSINGS

Nine & Night suspense: Last week, the Thai restaurant Nine & Night jumped the gun on announcing the opening of its new 414 Amherst St. location.  Its fanbase, grown through years of diligent service in the original fire-struck West Side Bazaar, will have to wait a while longer for black pepper beef, green curry, and more favorites. 

This week, the place should open, owner Htay Naing said. Stay tuned.

Cones on Connecticut: Connecticut Street Creamery opened Feb. 27 at 401 Connecticut St., bringing the neighborhood a sundae shop open every day of the week.

Sandwiches, bubble tea, baked goods, 

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.

Alehouse goes dark: Rush Creen Alehouse, at 5381 Abbott Road, Hamburg, announced its closing March 3.

“It is with a heavy heart that we are writing to announce we are closing this current location,” the post said, extending thanks to customers and staff. “This is not goodbye but see you later.”

EVENTS

Stirling Place Shango reunion: If you’re among the crowd that misses Stirling Place Tavern from the John Gardon and Judy Russo era, you can get reacquainted at a St. Patrick’s Day party on March 16.

They’ll be at Shango Bistro, 3260 Main St. From 11 a.m-10 p.m., corned beef, Reubens, shepherd’s pie, Guinness Stew and much more. Reservations suggested: call 716-837-2326 or book at shangobistro.net.

Orso Nero Pizza pops up on Hertel: One of the buzziest dishes in the West Side Bazaar lineup is the tomato pie from Orso Nero Pizza. 

Mike Diletti, Orso Nero chef-owner, will offer his pies on Hertel Avenue March 15 at a pop-up in Wine on Hertel, 1370 Hertel Ave.

Fig jam, funghi, cheese and pepperoni, and margherita pies can be yours for $18. The window of opportunity is 5 p.m.-9 p.m.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: My grandson just returned from a Lockport High School senior class trip to Costa Rica and Panama City and much to his surprise – and his grandmother’s delight! – he found that he loved the food!

He’s joining the Marines this summer after he graduates and I’d love to take him out to dinner somewhere in the Buffalo area where we can enjoy those foods together. Do you have any suggestions?

A: Yes. Unfortunately, they do not include Costa Rican or Panamanian restaurants, as such.

With that caveat, Buffalo offers half-dozen cousin cuisines, you might say, that are worth checking out.

Panama’s southern neighbor, Colombia, has an outpost at 247 Niagara St., where Sabores de mi Tierra dishes up stuffed arepas, griddled corncakes, plus eye-popping meat-lovers’ platters like the bandeja paisa: grilled beef cutlet, griddled chorizo sausage, deep-fried skin-on pork belly plank, plantains, avocado, rice and beans.

There’s also a Salvadoran takeout outfit in Lackawanna called House of Pupusas, the pupusa being El Salvador’s arepa. 

The first place I’d head, though, is Tortuga. A Bolivian cook and her husband offer flavors from Peru, Colombia, and other South American nations. Don’t be fooled by the “sandwich shop” label. Any of their sandwiches can be translated to salad, rice, or fried potato bowls.

MORE READING by Michael Chelus

This week on the Nittany Epicurean, I wrote about the 2012 Keuka Lake Vineyards Dry Riesling, the 2020 Barra of Mendocino Reserve Petite Sirah and the 2019 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley.

• Mr. Galarneau reviewed a Niagara Falls staple – Fortuna’s [Four Bites]

• Tortas have come to Chandler Street in the form of WNY Tortas [Four Bites]

• Episode four of Four Bites Show featured two of my favorite people – Lindsay and RJ Marvin, owners of Barrel + Brine [Four Bites]

• Healthy Options Restaurant Week is almost over [Buffalo Rising]

• Jessica told us how Alex Wood and Dan Harwood, owners of Brighton Liquor, are carrying on the legacy of a great man – Bob Leighton [Buffalo Spree]

• Andrew gave us a recipe for Fassolakia ladera – Greek braised green beans and potatoes [Four Bites]

• Brett wrote about the new brick and mortar location of Gypsy Kitchen in Lockport [Step Out Buffalo]

• Brett also told us about Golden Waffles in Buffalo’s University Heights district [Step Out Buffalo]

• Brian’s Buffalo Beer Briefs told us of Habitat for Humanity Buffalo’s seventh annual Hammer & Ales fundraiser at the Barrel Factory on 3/21, a new release for Santora’s 1927 Brewhouse and more [Step Out Buffalo]

• Andrew is hosting Burmese 101 at the Downtown Bazaar on 3/19 [Four Bites]

• Black Button Distilling has teamed up with the Rochester Americans to release Pesky Amerks Whiskey [Buffalo Scoop]

• Chef Krista Van Wagner was Andrew’s guest on the latest episode of Four Bites show [Four Bites]

Have a suggestion for a story or article? Contact me via email, message me on Facebook through the Nittany Epicurean page, tag me in a post on X @michaelchelus or send me a DM on Instagram @michaelchelus.

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