Holy Protection souvlaki tent ended 26-year run in 2017, but my souvlaki flame still burns
As grilling season heats up, here’s my most-requested recipe: chicken souvlaki.
This one comes from the Greek-Canadian restaurant professionals responsible for the Holy Protection Church souvlaki tent at Canal Fest of the Tonawandas for 26 years, until 2017. Working the grill throughout the eight-day festivals was the closest I’ve come to real restaurant labor.
Since then, I’ve made souvlaki hundreds of times, for thousands of people. This recipe ennobles beef, pork, paneer cubes, and other proteins headed for the grill, and even emboldens tilapia filets run under the broiler.
Stick to the measurements the first time you try it, then dial in individual spice levels to your taste.
For best effects, do not use chicken breast, which dries out swiftly. The Canal Fest pros chose chicken tenders, because the single muscle holds moisture when cooked, and was easily portioned on 4-ounce skewers.
My choice is boneless, skinless chicken thighs. They are almost impossible to dry out before as their edges char nicely.
The marinade can be applied immediately before cooking, or up to a week ahead, kept refrigerated. You can freeze bags of marinated raw meat to thaw and use at your leisure. A year in the freezer will cost you slightly in texture, but nothing in flavor.
Cheater note: if cooking in an under-resourced kitchen, you can use garlic or onion, and white or black pepper, doubling the amounts, and still get respectable results.
Chicken souvlaki Canal Fest style
5 pounds boneless skinless chicken thighs, more or less
½ cup vegetable oil
⅛ cup vinegar, white, red, or cider
¼ cup dried oregano
¼ cup onion powder
¼ cup granulated garlic
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
2 tablespoons ground white pepper
1 tablespoon salt
Mix all ingredients together, massaging mixture into chicken until fully coated.
To grill: Heat half grill area with charcoal or gas. The unheated half is the time-out corner to save chicken from flare-ups.
Boneless skinless chicken thighs render enough fat to flare up. Not all flame is bad, but if you see sooty black smoke, move the chicken to time-out until the flame burns down. Sooty chicken isn’t cool. Return to hot side after it fades.
Because of the way they’re cut, boneless skinless chicken thighs render their own mini-nuggets. These are bite-sized pieces of meat just hanging on, that cook first. Mini-nugs can be pulled off with tongs and set finish at grillside, or if they’re done, put on the plate for amuse bouches.
Turn chicken every 2 to 3 minutes, 15-20 minutes, until it seems done.
Then take a thicker piece, and cut it open to make sure it meets your audience’s definition of done. Fully cooked boneless skinless thighs trigger the “raw chicken” alarm for some palates, so just keep on cooking until approved, because this chicken won’t get parched.
Remove finished chicken to a ready pan to cool, and chop for service.
Enjoy on salad, rice, toasted pita bread, or a plate, with tzatziki, if possible.
Leftovers can serve more salads, sandwiches, and rice bowls for days.
#30#
