Sunday News: Amira’s Kitchen lands near airport, blessing Cheektowaga with chicken

Macy’s Pizzeria opens in Clarence, Moriarty beer dinner, and where to find Sichuan ma-la dishes

Amira Khalil wore her hand-stitched finery for the occasion.

Flame-bronzed rotisserie chicken with garlic mayonnaise and falafel platters with pickles are Cheektowaga chow now.

Palestinian restaurateur Amira Khalil completed her move from Riverside to Cleveland Drive, celebrating the opening of Amira’s Kitchen in the former Mr. Bill’s, 1500 Cleveland Drive. 

This reporter showed up to capture the moment, and found himself cutting the ribbon, at Khalil’s request. 

Khalil and her family’s investment in Cheektowaga tripled the capacity of her restaurant. Fortunately, there’s a 60-car parking lot behind the restaurant, so if the customers materialize, there’s plenty of room for them to park.

The draws remain the same, starting with that rotisserie chicken, marinated then spin-roasted, basting in their own fat, till tender. It’s $30 for a whole bird and two sides. Hummus, babaganoush, and french fries you might expect, and chopped tomato-cucumber-scallion-green pepper salad in tahini dressing. But Amira’s sides include West Side favorites like fried plantains, and black beans.

There’s also pastellilos (3/$12), deep-fried ground beef turnovers, on the appetizer menu. Along with kibbe (3/$12), Syrian-style beef croquettes with bulgur wheat shells holding a payload of ground beef and onions that ought to be dunked in the proffered lemony tahini sauce.

Kibbe at Amira’s Kitchen

Sandwiches rolled in pita bread can satisfy vegans (falafel and hummus, $12) or carnivores (beef kofta, $14, lamb kabob, $16) and come with za’atar-dusted fries. 

The bar remains, but there’s no alcohol, as befitting a halal restaurant. Smoothies ($8), mint lemonade ($6), and sahlab ($7), a traditional Levantine winter sipper of warm milk with coconut, perfumed with orange blossom water.

Check out the complete menu, and order online, at amiraskitchenny.com.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesday. Phone: 716-428-3000.

Bone-in ribeye, “Ground Round” steak fries, bone marrow aioli, koji butter, at Beacon Grille

REVIEW: Opened three months ago, Beacon Grille has already shouldered its way into must-see territory for Buffalo diners looking for a first-class experience. The fire-driven Allen Street restaurant presents fine dining skills without white-linen fussiness, drawing from local sources and ancient inspirations, served by a hustling crew of trained professionals. Make reservations, then see what can happen when topnotch culinary talents who could work anywhere make their stand in Buffalo. (For patrons, later today.)


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CHANGING HANDS

Dave Janicki, owner of Clarence steak favorite Kennedy’s Cove, has traded in “his crocs and socks for golf shoes” after 23 years. He sold the restaurant to longtime chef Jamison Reagan.

From the announcement: “1. Yes, gift certificates previously purchased will continue to be accepted under the new owner. 2. Gift certificates do not expire. 3. Kennedys Cove is NOT closing!”

CLOSINGS

The Grapevine, a family destination and vicarious aquarium stop for 40 years, has served its last fish fry.

The 2545 Niagara Falls Blvd. location is closed with the retirement of owners Tom and Liza Pane.

“Our family business has had so many awesome experiences in the community, and it brings us great satisfaction,” the Pane family said in a statement. “We want to say thank you to everyone who dined with us, whether you have been dining with us for years or just now found us. We are grateful for your continued support and loyalty that you have brought us.”

Gift certificates can be used at Grapevine Banquets, 333 Dick Road, Depew.

EVENTS

Moriarty Oktoberfest: On Sept. 25, meet certified cicerone Craig Altobello of Magic Bear Beer Cellar, pairing brews with chef Jennifer Boye’s Oktoberfest-inspired menu.

It’s dinnertime at Cafe Bar Moriarty, 1650 Elmwood Ave.

Four courses, family style, with a beer pairing per course. “You will be seated with the number of tickets you purchase. Please note at the time of booking if you have any allergies or if you have any restrictions preventing you from sitting at a high top table or at the bar,” the invitation notes.

Cash bar 5:30 p.m. First course 6 p.m. sharp.

Tickets, $80, do not include sales tax or gratuity. Get your tickets here. (A $10 deposit per ticket is required.)

(Above: A1 chicken with fresh spicy pepper at Golden Hill)

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: What’s the word on pepper chicken that makes your lips tingle?

  • Chris McKean, Buffalo

A: Since Chinese Chinese restaurants started opening near the University at Buffalo’s North Campus, ma-la has joined Frank’s Hot among the greatest spice sensations in town.

Dried chiles in Chinese food is nothing new to fans of General Tso’s chicken and other paragons of Chinese-American cuisine. What’s new is Sichuan peppercorn, actually a bud from a member of the ash family, whose tongue-numbing effects are used by skilled tools to balance chile flames. Ma-la is the fire-and-ice interplay between the two elements.

A12: Cold beef and tripe in hot oil, at Golden Hill

Peking Quick One, 359 Somerville Ave., Tonawanda, 716-381-8730. (Review)

Hot & chile chicken, Peking Quick One

Home Taste, 3106 Delaware Ave., Kenmore, 716-322-0088

China Taste, 1280 Sweet Home Road, Suite 102, Amherst, 716- 568-0080 (Review)

Miss Hot Cafe, 3311 Sheridan Drive, Amherst, 716-832-3188

Golden Hill, 4001 Sheridan Drive, Amherst, 716-631-7198

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