Sunday News: Quenelle brings new French accent to well-remembered space

New Year’s Eve bounty for Miller’s Thumb superfans, Papa’s Halal Gyro launches

Quenelles are poached dumplings of minced fish and egg, with Buffalo’s new French place Quenelle serving halibut versions on lobster cream.

On June 24, 2017, Rue Franklin closed. For 2,740 days, Buffalo had no full-fledged French restaurants.

Then Quenelle opened, on Christmas Eve, at the same address.

While it occupies the space where Rue Franklin defined French dining in Buffalo for four decades, Quenelle is French with a different accent. Owners Leacel Hillenbrand and Rachel Herman-Gross are aiming for more casual territory, a place where you can order escargot in a T-shirt if that’s your pleasure.

Under emerald walls, banquette seats line the dining room at Quenelle.

“A modern bistro, focused on traditional French dishes, innovative cocktails and a regional French wine list,” is their vision. Updates include a wheelchair-accessible bathroom, and banquette seating in the front dining room. There are no tablecloths. But the courtyard, fondly remembered in full flower, will host diners again.

Quenelle is the first restaurant for Hillenbrand and Herman-Gross, who met at Angelica Tea Room in 2017. Chef Abby Fleury heads the kitchen, after serving as Wanakah Country Club sous chef.

Named after the Lyonnaise poached fish dumpling, Quenelle’s menu is French to the core. Escargot ($14) or frog legs ($18) in garlicky herb butter join salade Lyonnaise (bacon lardon, poached egg, croutons, dijon vinaigrette on frisee, $14) and chestnut soup ($9) among the starters.

Entrees include boeuf bourguignon ($38), confit de canard et cassoulet ($38), and scallops with braised endive, with celery root puree and beurre blanc ($46).

Desserts ($10) start with creme brulee, and chocolate pots de creme with candied macadamias, but will likely feature other players.

If you wish you could dine at Rue Franklin again, join the club. But that’s not an offering on the menu. Quenelle is here to set its own standards, and find its own fans.

Tile floor in entryway reminds guests things have changed at 341 Franklin St.

341 Franklin St., reserve here, quenellebuffalo.com

Hours: 5 p.m.-2 a.m Monday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight Sunday. Dinner 5 p.m.-10 p.m., then late night menu until 1 a.m. Closed Tuesday, Wednesday.

Hong Kong typhoon shelter shrimp, at Mahar Moe in Tonawanda.

REVIEW: Mahar Moe Asian Cuisine might blend in with other pan-Asian restaurants you drive by in the Northtowns, but Ping Fa Li can drop famous dishes from the other side of the world on your head right there in Tonawanda. Or stick to your General Tso’s chicken, because this chef is a multi-cuisine threat. (Later today, for patrons.)

EVENT: If you’re one of the people who’s made Miller’s Thumb Bakery Bakery & Cafe part of your life since it opened in Tonawanda, set your alarms for New Year’s Eve morning.

That’s the day master baker Steve Horton presents his most deeply personal selection of breads and pastries. In addition to the regular lineup. Horton and partner Jill Colella will offer a grab-bag of unusual Miller’s Thumb goodies before the business closes for its winter break, reopening Jan. 8.

From 8 a.m. until sold out, here’s some of the special attractions the morning of Dec. 31, described by Colella.

Tortano: Italian ring shaped loaf with potato in dough with a soft crumb and crisp crust.

Cinnamon raisin bread: uses tangzhong method so it’s super soft.

Whole wheat and cornmeal loaf: This is signature Steve, bread so rustic it seems like punishment – then it is astonishingly delicious.

Schiaccata bread: Tuscan flatbread with crunchy exterior and soft interior

Buttermilk biscuits: back due to popular demand.

Pretzels and housemade mustard, pizza dough balls, Ham and cheese croissant, bostock, and colombier – almond cake with rum, lemon zest and orange zest, Steve’s absolute favorite.

A CHRISTMAS STORY: After introducing Anastasia Nikolaeva and her Anastasia’s Artisan Bread Bakery last week, reader Gretchen Seibert told me a story that I have her permission to share.

Anastasia and her family live in my community and she often took orders from the residents here and would deliver them herself.

Two or three Christmases ago, when a blizzard stopped everyone from leaving home to celebrate with loved ones, we were invited by a neighbor to share their family dinner (as their children could not get through the snow to come).

As I walked to their home, not far, out of the snowy night came an “angel,” pulling a sled. She offered me a loaf of her bread, which she had been delivering around the neighborhood. How wonderful to be visited by such an angel and take her Christmas gift to dinner to share with my friends.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Where are you going to be on New Year’s Eve?

A: At home in my jammies, making crepes. But if I was venturing out to join in the hubbub and festivities welcoming 2025, I’d try to get a table at Marble + Rye, which offers an irresistable combination of pakoras, Detroit-style pizza, bespoke cocktails, and proximity to the ball drop site. Tables are still available.

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