RIP Brick Bar, masters of marijuana gather in Niagara, and who’s a sucker for octopus?

Humanity’s love of coffee has it roots in Yemen, where the earliest evidence of coffee cultivation dates to the 12th century.

Nine centuries later, Yemeni coffee has arrived in Buffalo. A wave of coffee shops have opened their doors, offering distinctive spiced brews, honey-glazed honeycomb bread and other baked treats, and room for people to chat, or chill, in quietly aromatic surroundings.

Qamaria Yemeni Coffee Co. opened last week on Main Street in Williamsville, joining Sana’a Cafe on Hertel Avenue, and Raha Coffee House at Amherst and Grant in Black Rock.

Elmwood Avenue has its own Yemeni coffee shop district shaping up. Haraz Coffee House is preparing to open at 471 Elmwood Ave. The largest Yemeni coffee shop under way is 477 Elmwood Ave., where Yemen Coffee Shop is expected to fill the former Casa di Pizza location.

Socotra Cafe is working on a cafe at 547 Elmwood Ave., formerly The Cereal Spot, while its original Lackawanna location, the first Yemeni coffee shop in the area, remains closed.

Yemeni coffee culture delights in diversification. Instead of 30 flavored syrups, it uses spices, herbs, and other parts of the coffee berry to produce caffeine-rich drinks with distinctive character.

Aden is Yemen’s trade center, its second-largest city and biggest port, the eastern terminus of the spice route used by 3rd century traders. Adeni chai usually combines Yemeni coffee with cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and evaporated milk.

Sana’a is Yemen’s capital and largest city. With a population of about 2 million, it’s one of the oldest continuously occupied spots on the planet. Sana’a-style coffees introduce ginger, with cinnamon and cardamom.

There’s a dozen varieties, some including qishr, coffee bean husks, which is used as a lower-caffeine beverage in Yemen. Riffling through the possibilities invites multiple visits.

Yemeni coffee is also offered by the pot, the smallest one suitable for two persons. In Yemeni culture, coffee is the dominant social lubricant, shared in settings where it serves as conversation fuel. That works in Buffalo, too, where people who don’t drink alcohol are always looking for more third-space options to enjoy life outside home or work.

Cappuccinos, cortados, espressos, and the rest of the Italian coffee pantheon are on offer as well.

Then there’s the honeycomb bread: Bite-sized baked buns filled with cheese, nuts, Nutella, or other surprises. Sabaya comes by the slice, like other pies. This one’s got a crust of phyllo-like pastry brushed with clarified butter and sprinkled with sesame or nigella seeds.

Yemeni coffee culture offers a new world of caffeine to explore, one that lends itself to keeping company. It’s going to be a long winter.

Qamaria Yemeni Coffee Co.

5363 Main St., Williamsville, qamariacoffee.com, 716-276-3213

Hours: 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, Saturday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday.

Raha Coffee House

370 Amherst St., rahacoffeehouse.com, 716-615-5555

Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 8 a.m.-midnight Friday, Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday.

Sana’a Cafe

1207 Hertel Ave., sanaahousecafe.com, 716-370-0080

Hours: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Thursday, 8 a.m.-midnight Friday, Saturday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday.

REVIEW: The Buffalo tavern has joined the threatened species list as post-pandemic nesting tendencies have thinned the herd of people who want to spend the evening outside their home. Near Cazenovia Park, in the heart of South Buffalo, The Dog & Pony Saloon is making a strong bid to reverse the trend. The former Schupper Club sports renewed, brighter insides and a menu that breaks out of the ruts with Korean fried brussels sprouts, chimichurri potato salad, and duck confit poutine. (Later today, for patrons.)

RIP Brick Bar: Another Allentown fixture was destroyed by fire this morning, as Mulligan’s Brick Bar went up in flames.

Coming too soon after the Old Pink arson, which left another charred gap on the block, it leaves Allentowners and plenty of others hoping it’s not a trend.

“Need armed patrols at Nietzsche’s,” said an r/Buffalo commenter.

CANNABIS CONVENTION: The 2025 SUNY Cannabis Conference lights up Niagara County Jan. 13 and 14 with educational panels, marijuana entrepreneur meet-and-greets, and CBD-infused meals.

Organized by SUNY Niagara, formerly Niagara County Community College, the event aims to advance cannabis education, foster professional networking, and inform the public about the numerous opportunities within this rapidly evolving industry. Sessions include medical cannabis research, plant genetics, sustainable practices, and culinary cannabis innovations.

Jan. 13: Niagara Falls Culinary Institute, 28 Old Falls Street, Niagara Falls. 11 a.m.-7:30 p.m., gourmet CBD-infused lunch and dinner provided.

Jan. 14: SUNY Niagara, 3111 Saunders Settlement Road, Sanborn, 8 a.m.-5 p.m., Light Breakfast and Gourmet Lunch Provided. Presentations by Dr. Dustin Sulak, a Maine osteopath and medical cannabis expert, and Ed Rosenthal, cannabis growing expert, legalization activist, and former High Times columnist.

Conference registration, $150, available here.

(Ice sculpture was at 2024 edition.)

ASK THE CRITIC:

Q: Last year we traveled to Greece, and enjoyed the food very much. One of the restaurants we went to in Thessaloniki served us grilled octopus with potatoes. Are there any places in Buffalo where we can get that octopus?

Sherry G., Hamburg, via email

A: There are several grilled octopus offerings on area menus worth your consideration, but I haven’t seen any distinctly Greek versions.

At Bistro Avera, grilled octopus, lentils, garlic puree, tomatoes, and celery, $20.

At Beacon Grille, charred octopus, paella rice, roasted tomato, romesco, fried chickpeas, $21. (Romesco is a Catalan Spanish sauce of sweet dried chiles, almonds, garlic, vinegar, olive oil, and breadcrumbs.)

At DiTondo, grilled octopus, pickled mushrooms, pea shoots, $20.

At Prescott’s Provisions, grilled octopus, crispy potato, marinated celery, romesco, $20. (Review coming next week, for patrons.)

More reading from Michael Chelus:

• Mr. Galarneau wrote about a meal had from a tipster’s suggestion at Mahar Moe Asian Cuisine [Four Bites]

• Quenelle has opened in the space formerly occupied by Rue Franklin [Four Bites]

• Jon Riggie prepares Chinese loose leaf tea using the traditional Gongfu method at his new tea house – The Jade Turtle [Buffalo News]

• Christa told us how Michelin Star dining is not far from Western York and can be found at Restaurant Pearl Morissette and Fat Rabbit [Buffalo Spree]

• For the 13th year in a row, Buffalo Eats has released its Favorite Meals series. Here are the installments for 2024 – Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5 [Buffalo Eats]

• Andrew told us why we should put Puerto Rico on our life map [Four Bites]

• D.A. Taste has opened their second restaurant – D.A. Eatz [Step Out Buffalo]

• Brian’s weekly Buffalo beer news told us about the opening of Monster Beach Brewery & Tiki Bar, the return of The Art of Beer and more [Step Out Buffalo]

#30#