Sunday News: Tortuga brings lomo saltado and more to Kenmore March 18

Tortuga Sandwich Shop was born five years ago in Sanborn, to Andrew Smiedala of Tonawanda, and Carla of Coroico, Bolivia.

On March 18, they will proudly introduce its sibling to the world, at 3189 Delaware Ave., Kenmore. Open 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Tortuga Kenmore will have a slightly expanded menu, adding a few best-hits specials like quesabirria tacos and birria ramen to the lineup.

Carla and Andrew Smiedala opened Tortuga Sandwich Shop in 2020.

Tortuga’s original Sanborn location will go dark briefly, Smiedala said. Reopening should be in a month or so, when staffing allows.

From its first steps, Tortuga wasn’t like the other restaurants. This sandwich shop translated its signature offerings into salads, rice or grain bowls, burritos, or fried potato wedge munchie boxes.

Its South American heritage showed in dishes delivering classic flavors of Peru, Colombia, and Argentina, along with Mexico and Spain. Lomo saltado finally made it to Buffalo. Or close enough.

Lomo saltado is a Peruvian classic with Chinese roots, a stir-fry of beef, tomato, onion, french fries, and soy sauce. At Tortuga please note the Chino ($15.75). That’s soy-marinated sirloin, tomato salsa, onions, fried potatoes, aji verde, and queso, on saffron rice, brown rice and quinoa, burrito shell, or on greens.

Pelotas ($6.75) are mini-arancini done up in Spanish flavors, saffron rice balls with cores of manchego cheese, crumbed and fried to golden. Garlic mayonnaise and spicy tomato sauce smoky with pimenton are provided for your double-dipping pleasure.

Gustavo, fried chicken in chile butter, avocado, smoky cheese, pickled jalapenos, garlic aioli, at Tortuga.

Sweets started with alfajores ($4.75), Argentinian sandwich cookies of butter wafers and salted dulce de leche, rolled in coconut. Now there’s Xoco ($4.75), shortbread filled with Mexican chocolate, rolled in chocolate-cinnamon crumble, and chocolate mousse cake ($6.50), with salted caramel, chocolate-cinnamon crumble, and whipped cream.

Tres leches cake ($6.50) is white cake soaked with evaporated milk, condensed milk, heavy cream, and vanilla, topped with whipped cream, salted caramel and macerated strawberries.

Now one of Niagara County’s most remarkable restaurants will be convenient to the lomo-saltado-deprived districts of Erie County.

Here’s the Kenmore menu:

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Legit chicken-fried steak is just the beginning of the Texas diner classics at Southern Belle Diner in Lancaster.

REVIEW: Southern Belle Diner has become an oasis of relief and respite for those of us who love chicken fried steak but cannot stomach Cracker Barrel. Cody Nix, a former Special Forces operator who grew up in a Texas diner family, has gotten his own place in Lancaster, where his huevos rancheros, chicken-fried steak, and green chile cheese grits offer a welcome contrast to the eggs, potatoes, and toast-centered offerings anywhere else in Western New York. (Later today, for patrons.)


OPENING: Yankee BBQ’s new Hamburg location, 4572 Clark St., opens today at noon.

In the former Raphael’s, 4572 Clark St., Hamburg, Brian Nagy and his crew will offer Texas-style barbecue and new offerings like smoked cheesesteaks, along with a full bar.

“We’re going for a sports bar with barbecue, not a restaurant with a bar,” Nagy said.

The new Yankee BBQ will seat 50, with enough television screens for everyone. With more room to cook, Nagy will broaden his current menu of smoked meat specialties like Brontosaurus-sized beef ribs, brisket, and loganberry-glazed pork belly bites.

Brisket cheesesteak with onions and peppers is coming. Barbecue ramen, the love child of two passionate cuisines, is coming soon, in smoked beef brisket, and pork belly with chicharrones.

Here’s the new Yankee BBQ menu:

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: Are there any local restaurants that will have a St.Joseph’s Day dinner special?

– Barbara Delgross, Kenmore

A: The March 19 celebration of St. Joseph’s namesday is especially embraced in Sicily, and by American Italians of Sicilian descent. Up to 12 dishes, all seafood, no meat, are part of the traditional meal. After putting this question to readers, I have two results to report.

On March 19, Carmine’s, 7170 Transit Road, Amherst, 716-636-3100, offers a six-course St. Joseph’s Day Feast, reservations recommended. Artichoke heart fritters, cardone, calamari; lentil soup; salad with oranges and olives; baked haddock, fried smelts, frittata; penne marinara or pasta con sarde; cannoli and pizelles, $39.

On Sunday, March 16, as well as March 19, Bianchetti by Rizzo’s, 550 N. French Road, Amherst, 716-691-4045, offers a groaning table of St. Joseph’s Day specialties. Pasta e fagioli, lentil soup, pasta con sarde or linguine in clam sauce to start. Then frittatas, eggplant parmigiana, fried smelts, broiled fish, cardoons, beans and greens, artichokes, lentils and rice, penne broccoli, white pizza, fruits and vegetables, salads, olives, and St. Joseph’s breads. Adults $27.95, children under 10 $15.95.

More reading from Michael Chelus:

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