When Emma Reynolds, of West Sussex, England, moved to East Aurora, one of the first things she did after unpacking was find a sausagemaker.

Moving to the United States for her husband’s job wasn’t Reynold’s first plunge into the British diaspora. Grown up on Lincolnshire sausages, of coarsely ground pork, green herbs, and sage, she had come to recognize they were an important part of her self-care.

“The first thing I did when I moved here, because I do this everywhere I go, is went to the butchers with my sausage recipe and asked them to make me sausages, because I was missing them so very much,” Reynolds said.

So she took her recipe to Federal Meats, which made her Lincolnshire links to her specifications, every time she asked. “Subsequently,” Reynolds said, “they named me ‘the sausage lady,’ which is quite embarrassing every time I go back there.”

After American friends took her to Parker’s Great British Institution on South Park Avenue for fish and chips, she started buying Lincolnshires from Parker’s instead. Damian and Vicky Parker’s British staple enterprise made British sausages, sourced the right sort of streaky bacon, and made savory pies and sausage rolls.

So when the Parkers decided to sell their company, Reynolds bought it, with a partner, another Parker’s regular, born in Hinkley, Leicestershire. Her name is Michelle Potter. “Like Harry, which is very annoying,” said Potter.

“It was actually her idea to buy it,” said Reynolds, “to which I stupidly said yes.” Damien Parker frequently pops in to help them troubleshoot at the new Parker’s Great British Institution store at 495 Aero Drive, Cheektowaga.

Duck into the semi-hidden British foods emporium, and you’ll find the characteristic staples of English diets – sauces, sweets, beverages – plus a whole raft of English-style pies, sausage rolls, and more, made in the same building.

“We are planning to reopen the fish and chip shop at the front of our building, which faces the runway, so you can see the planes taking off and landing, which is quite exciting,” Reynolds said. “We might get a British phone box, too. That would be even more cute, wouldn’t it?”

It’s a British fish and chip shop, brought over from England. Once installed and inspected, it’ll hopefully be open by summer. Expect Parker’s sausage rolls too, warm and ready to eat, plus pies of the moment.

For the Americans, Parker’s added a cheddar sausage roll, “with grated cheddar throughout.”

There’s more help for British cravings on the way, since Parker’s has figured out how to ship frozen fried fish that reheats shockingly well. “We can freeze fish and chips as well, and ship them across the country,” Reynolds said, “which is the other advantage of what we do.”

Parker’s Great British Institution, 495 Aero Drive, Cheektowaga, parkersgbi.com, 716-823-3772

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday, 9 p.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

REVIEW: Buffalo’s Yemeni community, an ingredient in Western New York’s melting pot since the 1920s, has only recently started opening restaurants. At Almandi, on Broadway a half-mile from the Broadway market, fresh bread, oven-braised lamb, and stews delivered bubbling furiously in battered cauldrons are an excellent introduction to the satisfactions of the Yemeni table. (Later today, for patrons.)

VEGAN SOUL FOOD: Deep-fried salmon, vegan soul food, and breakfast in regular and vegan styles are the calling cards of Belle V’s Kitchen, a takeout and delivery soul food operation launching March 21 in 27 Chandler St., the Black Rock food incubator.

Owner Tori Epps is a veteran caterer whose soul food repertoire has evolved to meet the demands of today’s eaters. There’s deep-fried salmon bites ($24), “marry me” chicken ($23), and haddock ($22), but the lasagna is chicken, the crispy deep-fried chops in gravy are turkey.

Her vegan lineup includes meatloaf ($22), BBQ jackfruit ($22), Philly cheesesteaks ($16), spicy cabbage rolls ($12), egg rolls ($10), and fruit soup ($4.50). Desserts include traditional iced lemon pound cake ($8), strawberry crunch cake cups ($7), and vegan peach cobbler ($7).

Belle V’s Kitchen, 27 Chandler St., bellevskitchenllc.com, 716-346-1975

Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday, Thursday, Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Closed Tuesday, Wednesday.

RITA DITONDO CLOSE-UP: Rita DiTondo went around the world, worked in Michelin-starred restaurants, and came back home to bring Michelin-level Italian cuisine to Buffalo. Here’s the profile of DiTondo I wrote for Buffalo Spree’s March edition.

Here’s how it starts:

When sixteen-year-old Rita DiTondo wanted to work at a pizza place in Corning, she didn’t fill out an application and wait for the phone to ring. She called the owner every day until he said yes. “He probably gave me the job because he was so annoyed I wouldn’t stop calling,” she says.

That same drive took her around the world before she came home to put down roots. Buffalo is richer for her journey as she now owns and operates DiTondo on Seneca Street with her husband, Lombardy native Fabio Consonni. After exploring the country for possible restaurant sites, the couple chose the building where DiTondo’s great-grandfather Sebastino opened his restaurant in 1904.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: I’m looking for leads on a fish fry that does NOT use beer or other alcohol in their batter.

• Ehlimana Imamović, Buffalo, via Facebook

A: There’s a boatload of non-alcoholic options in this fried-fish-crazed town.

First and foremost Hayes Seafood House, 8900 Main St., Clarence, 716-632-1772, the area’s last seafood specialist restaurant and fishmonger, with a century of fillet-wrangling experience. Their fried seafood is New England style crumb-coated, no beer involved. (Here’s my latest review.)

Similarly, Buffalo’s Bailey Seafood, 3316 Bailey Ave., baileyseafood.com, 716-833-1973, another long-running family operation with crumb-coated seafood, with a robust online ordering and pickup business. Fine-grained ordering allows customers to ask for a single piece of fish from Bailey Seafood’s market cases, fried to order.

Furthermore, many fish fry favorites offer a “crumbed” or “breaded” option, which is alcohol-free. Such as Wiechec’s Lounge, Gene McCarthy’s, and my sleeper favorite for fish fry season, Royal Family Restaurant.

Also, not fried, but not alcoholic either: Ukrainian style fish dinner ($15), dipped in an egg batter. On Fridays the Ukrainian-American Civic Center, 205 Military Road, welcome guests to enjoy the cooking of Maria Hanypsiak.

More reading from Michael Chelus:

• Mr. Galarneau wrote about Southern Belle – a Texas-style diner that gives all day satisfaction [Four Bites]
• Tortuga Sandwich Shop’s second location in Kenmore opens on 3/18 [Four Bites]
• Christa wrote about Anastasia Nikolaeva and her bakery – Anastasia’s Artisan Bread Bakery & Coffee Shop [Buffalo Spree]
• Francesca wrote about Courtney Smith – founder of @Buffalofishfrybabes – and her first Lenten Friday fish fry of the season at The Riverfield 865 [Buffalo News]
• Andrea wrote about the opening of the third location of Cluck Cluck Moo Moo [Step Out Buffalo]
• Morgan penned a guide to sponge candy shops in WNY including such notables as Antoinette’s Sweets, Fowler’s Chocolates and more [Step Out Buffalo]
• Andrianne gave us a list of the best bars to hit on St. Patrick’s Day including Adolf’s Old First Ward Tavern, Gene McCarthy’s, Frizzy’s and more [Step Out Buffalo]
• Brian’s weekly roundup up of local beer news included news of the first beer tapped by Monster Beach Brewery & Tiki Bar, a new mixed pack from Big Ditch and more [Step Out Buffalo]
• Andrew told us about the Salvadoran flavors to be found at House of Pupusas in Lackawanna [Four Bites]
• Francesca told us how Waxlight Bar à Vin has created a world class beverage program [Buffalo News]
• Jim argued that Angeline is setting the standard for fine dining [Buffalo Rising]
• Newell visited Haraz Coffee House [Buffalo Rising]
• Buffalo Eats is hosting its first meat raffle on 5/16 [Buffalo Eats]

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