Sunday News: Emperor Dumplings returns to Tonawanda with recast menu

Juicy Burger finds shore home, Falafel House feeds Hertel, and in search of Chelsea buns

Pork ribs steamed with black beans, at Emperor Dumplings

Emperor Dumplings has resumed welcoming customers in its Tonawanda restaurant, a relief to fans who crowded the Sheridan Plaza restaurant during its three-month run, only to see it close in January.

While Emperor Dumplings survived the sudden departure of its head dim sum specialist, its menu had to change. Several fried dim sum and roast meat dishes previously on the menu are gone, though more Chinese, Thai, and Burmese dishes have been added.

So if you still want fried taro with barbecue pork, you’re out of luck. You’ll have to choose from the other 65 dishes on Emperor Dumplings’ menu. Owners Zaw Win and Nyein Nyein Aung are cooking up plenty of worthwhile options.

There’s dim sum aplenty – steamed spare ribs, tofu skin rolls, egg tarts, pork dumplings, steamed eggplant with fish, and dozens more, at $5.49-$6.49.

A dozen Thai stir-fried noodle dishes, basil fried rice, and tom kha gai coconut chicken soup broaden the Thai offerings, and Shan noodle ($8.99) – featuring chicken in spice paste, topped with fried garlic – brings Burmese cooking to the table.

Read the new menu here. You can order through Emperor Dumplings’ Facebook page.

Hours: 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Wednesday-Monday. Closed Tuesday. Phone: 716-424-0576.

Chicken souvlaki breakfast with housemade white toast, Sophia’s

REVIEW: Sophia’s is my favorite diner in town. Not just for the chicken souvlaki breakfast with housemade toast and professional service, but what Sam Doherty has done to ensure the next generation of Buffalonians will also get to experience the profound blue-collar pleasures of a proper diner. Sophia Ananiadis is the matriarch of a Greek family that has blessed their community with not only Sophia’s, but Nick’s Place on Amherst Street, where her son makes all the bread and avgolemono chicken soup, and Nick’s Place Express, where a grandson offers breakfast and lunch in his own Elmwood Avenue spot. (Later today, for patrons.)

OPENINGS

Falafel House Bakery & Grill is the latest Arabic-accented restaurant operation at 1150 Hertel Ave. to serve North Buffalo’s falafel and babaganoush needs.

The menu goes on to pizzeria fare, with cheesesteaks, crispy chicken sandwiches, burgers, and wings. Tabouli, tahini chopped salad, and fattoush join the Caesar in the salad section.

Shawarma and kebabs, in beef and chicken, round out the menu.

Call 716-259-8743 or check out the menu here.

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday, Saturday.

BABS of Buffalo, the sausage and meat ingredient business from Jessica and Stephen Arends, has set retail hours Wednesday and Sunday at their Derby storefront.

At 6811 Erie Road, Derby, customers can drop by for smoked kielbasa, Calabrian chili Italian, or maple ginger breakfast sausage, beef BBQ patties, rendered leaf lard, and pork bone broth. That’s the selection this week, at least.

Wednesday nights it’s 4 p.m.-7 p.m., Sunday mornings 8 a.m.-noon. Keep an eye on its Facebook page for coming attractions.

Juicy Burger Bar has reopened – still in Hamburg, but as far west as possible.

The burger and fries specialist relocated to shoreline digs at 4038 Hoover Road, the sunset-blessed spot that was last Lago 210.

Phone: 716-648-3200. Hours: noon-8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, noon-9 p.m. Friday, Saturday. Closed Sunday, Monday.

Bougatsa, custard baked in phyllo, from That Greek Guy Bakery

Since several readers asked: That Greek Guy Bakery is a Broadway Market regular, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Friday. He’ll also be back at the Williamsville Farmers Market on Saturdays, with other interesting food vendors.

Owner Michael Giokas suggested that if you’re coming to the Broadway Market for something in particular, call 716-200-9825 and check with him before you get in the car. Sometimes he gets a run on his freshly baked bougatsa or pita, and sells out. He wants to make sure you don’t waste a trip.

ASK THE CRITIC

Q: I’m hoping you can find someone out there who makes the two following baked items.

Chelsea bun with very fruit sticky top.

Sandwich bread that is made in a square, no dimples, and not sliced. White or wheat. I need it to make pinwheel sandwiches.

Susan, Town of Lewiston

A: I had to look up Chelsea bun, which is another reason I simply love reader questions. My food knowledge expands with every term I add to my lexicon.

So think cinnamon bun, with currants, a rich yeast dough rolled up, cut into buns, and baked. While cinnamon buns typically sport white sugar icing, Chelsea buns get a sticky glaze.

Square sandwich loaves? Another stumper. The only truly square bread I could think of is the housemade bread at Sophia’s and its related diner family, which is not sold by the loaf.

But that’s where all my readers can help. If anyone knows where such things may be purchased at retail in the greater Buffalo area, please drop me a line at andrew@fourbites.net.

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