Here’s my favorite ways to thaw body and nourish soul, from kimchi jjigae to Welsh rarebit
When the snow squeaks under my boots, my thoughts turn to winter warmers, the dishes that help me survive when Mother Nature wants me dead as a frozen mackerel.
Cauldrons that offer aromatherapy in their steamy embrace, so I can lean over and breathe in a centering lungful of goodness. Nutrition for body and soul, frostbite-resistance powerup, here’s where I’d seek strength to hold out for the first glimpse of crocuses.
I’d suggest you make friends with phở. (Pronounced fuh, actually. Not foe.) It’s beef noodle soup, clear broth scented with star anise and charred ginger, with rice noodles, cilantro, onions, and your choice of beef style – rare, to cook in the piping-hot broth, well-done, chewy meatballs.
Or order “dac biet,” all the way, with all the above, tripe and shaved tendon.
The other part of the dish is a handful of bean sprouts, anise-leaning Thai basil sprigs, a lime wedge, sliced fresh jalapeno, and two sauces: brown hoisin, a sweet soy ketchup, and spicy red chile sauce.
The point is to doctor up the broth to your personal preference, so every phở is your own.
99 Fast Food, 3398 Bailey Ave., 716- 836-6058, 99fastfood.com
Pham’s Kitchen, 2940 Union Road, Cheektowaga, 716-901-7663, phamskitchen716.com
Xi Hu and West Lake beef soups are vats brimming with amiable, genius soup that is actually accessible to people who think Chinese restaurants are scary or too spicy. Chicken stock, ground beef, cilantro, and ginger are the main ingredients, its slightly thickened broth enriched with wisps of egg. A touch of black pepper is the only warming spice in the dish.
The difference is that West Lake, as found at China Taste, adds tofu.
Golden Hill, 4001 Sheridan Drive, Amherst, 716-631-7198, goldenhillasiancuisine.com
China Taste, 1280 Sweet Home Road, Amherst, 716-568-0080, chinatastebuffalo.com
Rarebit is simmering cheese sauce made of old ale, sharp cheddar, and a serious jolt of mustard. Dipping toast points into its magnificence as you watch flakes drift by a window is as close as I get to not caring about the fact that it might be even colder tomorrow.
Eagle House, 5578 Main St., Williamsville, 716-632-7669, eaglehouseonline.com
Gypsy Parlor ramen is a corpse reviver of some renown, having brought post-revelry sufferers back to life for years. Starting with instant ramen noodles, a bracing broth laced with chile and vinegar hides veg and choice of protein. The lush roast pork is my chosen dance partner, but shrimp and tofu versions are also on offer.
Gypsy Parlor, 376 Grant St., 716-551-0001, thegypsyparlor.com
Seltah is Yemeni vegetable stew, typically served bubbling in a battered black cauldron. Vegan potage that brings me back stands out, and this one is a simple symphony of marigold-colored broth resonant with turmeric and garlic, with carrots, okra, potatoes, and peas. Bring in the universal human satisfier of bread cooked to order, and this is animal-free serenity of the first order.
Crave King, 2693 South Park Ave., 716-783-9743, see menu here
Almandi, 797 Broadway, 716-853-1090, see menu here
Kimchi jjigae traditionally shows up ripping hot, too. Burbling away in a soybean-paste-fortified broth is tofu, pork, and chile-fermented cabbage kimchi. If that steam doesn’t get your senses thawed, seek medical attention.
Woo Chon Korea House, 402 Evans St., Amherst, 716-626-5980, woo-chon.com
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