After opening and closing a second place, Roberts learned how to keep the fire burning without burning out

The first time I heard of James Roberts was when a reader asked me to lunch at Park Country Club in the early 20-teens. It was the only time I’ve eaten in the historic complex on Sheridan Drive in Amherst. 

The new chef’s food is so good that you have to try it, they insisted. The dishes we shared were impressive, coloring outside the standard country club menu of surf and turf and a dearth of adventure. 

As a journalist of public accommodations, private dining is rarely on my storyboard. But I noticed a growing group of local eaters, encouraged by Roberts popups, waiting for the Roberts restaurant. Roberts gave a TEDxBuffalo talk in 2012, on mentorship, “Farming the next generation of your business.” 

Roberts opened Toutant in 2015 with his wife and business partner Connie. The restaurant’s broadly Southern approach has won it spots on many hometown eater and visitor shortlists. 

The Roberts opened a second place, Dobutsu, at 500 Seneca St. Later rebadged as Compass Run, the Roberts shut it down last year after disappointing sales numbers. 

On Monday, at 1 pm, paid subscribers can join our conversation at this link. We’ll talk about the changing landscape facing restaurant owners, what it takes to build a team, and what the future looks like from Toutant.

Type a question into chat, or present it yourself. Roberts isn’t shy. 

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