On Mother’s Day, consider my mother’s favorite restaurants

If white tablecloths and big-ticket prices make your mom squirm, she’s got company

Phyllis Galarneau, my mother, has broadened her dining horizons considerably over the years.

With Mother’s Day approaching, I’d like to take the opportunity to tell you where my mother, Phyllis Galarneau, likes to eat.

I love my mom. I know she stiffens up around starched white tablecloths, flinching when she opens a menu and sees the prices.

Over the years, at her son’s invitation, she has expanded her appetite to marvel at cuisines from around the world.

She does enjoy going out to eat with family. But in homey settings, places where they never ask you “sparkling or still?” Places run by families, where it feels like they are taking care of you.

Her favorite places don’t always take reservations, but they all offer major value, meaning they might take patience.

Falafel Bar might be her number one, if she was forced to name one. That’s because she eats vegan half the year, and falafel, hummus, babaganoush and chargrilled whole eggplant dressed with garlic and tahini always satisfy. Heads up: This year, Falafel Bar’s brunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m., is already sold out. The regular menu, featuring the crispiest chicken schnitzel ever, is available after 2 p.m.

Pan-fried tofu with egg at Peking Quick One.

Peking Quick One was her introduction to homestyle Northern Chinese cuisine, after it was mine. Once she learned the pleasures of Chinese dishes where sugar isn’t the first ingredient, she dug in. A wok-fried golden omelet with tofu and pork, crispy fish, beef noodle soup, and pork dumplings aren’t scaring anyone.

Taqueria Los Mayas is one of her favorite destinations. Tortilla chips and choriqueso, charro beans with hot dogs and bacon, and quesabirria tacos with consomme are now in her wheelhouse. Heads up: I’ve never been able to make a phone reservation, so I just go. If there’s a line, it usually moves swiftly.

Southern Junction is the place we’ve gone for celebrations, since its meats and mac and cheese are her favorites. Then there’s the banana pudding, and the recently arrived pecan pie.

Mysore bonda, left, and vada at Nellai Banana Leaf.

Nellai Banana Leaf was where she learned that eating vegan can be a real adventure. Eggplant in tamarind-garlic gravy, the savory lentil-rice doughnuts called vada, bread deep-fried then tossed with chile sauce and onions for the wildest croutons ever.

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