Sunday News: Empanada duo brings tortas to Chandler St., Rin returns to Elmwood

Healthy Choices Week, and torch lit for vegan aid in City of Tonawanda

Tortas on freshly baked telera rolls – like this chicken tinga number – start rolling out of 27 Chandler St. on March 11 (Photo: WNY Tortas)

As WNY Empanadas, David Brown and Otto Garcia have cultivated a following for their baked handheld delights, baked buttery crusts with fillings based on Niagara County produce.

Next up: Tortas, Mexican sandwiches stuffed with taco fillings. At 27 Chandler St., third floor, Suite 302, WNY Tortas will give it to you fresh. After years of selling from market tables, their brick-and-mortar phase starts March 11, from 11 a.m to 3 p.m.

The duo have rebranded their business to WNY Tortas to focus attention on their next contribution to Buffalo gastronomy: house-baked telera rolls, the classic torta bread. That’s in addition to their empanada lineup, which they’ll continue presenting North Tonawanda and Lockport farmers markets.

Teleras used in Buffalo are usually shipped in from Chicago or elsewhere. Given the duo’s track record with other Mexican baked specialties, like conchas and pan de muerto, teleras aren’t a stretch.

Housemade telera will by the WNY Tortas difference. (Photo: WNY Tortas)

Otoniel “Otto” Garcia is from the state of Hidalgo. David Brown was born in Houston but lived 13 years in Colima and 10 years in Mexico City. They met in Mexico City.

Brown returned to the US in 2017, Garcia in 2018. Before moving to Western New York, they worked at a Thousand Islands restaurant, Brown in the kitchen, and Garcia as front-of-house staff.

Their empanadas have found favor among market customers for meat combos like the Cuban, vegetable options like roasted poblano, and fruit fillings like Niagara County peaches caramelized in mezcal.

Whole chicken tinga torta comes together at WNY Tortas. (Photo: WNY Tortas)

WNY Tortas’ teleras are jumbo, about 9-by-6 inches. Its sandwiches will come by the half, or full, dressed appropriately, with mayonnaise, avocado, greens, and tomato. Expect fillings including chicken tinga, shredded chicken in smoky tomato sauce; milanesa, fried beef cutlet; and a vegetarian option.

Note that with the jumbo telera, a half is one serving, for most people.

Chicken tinga: half $12.75, full $23.50. Beef milanesa: half $13.50, full $25.

WNY Tortas, 27 Chandler St. third floor Suite 302, wnyempanadas.square.site, 716-318-5605

REVIEW

Fortuna’s is the sort of family-run Italian-American restaurant that has inspired a million lame knockoffs. Except that Fortuna’s is the real deal. Gnocchi rolled by hand, and cheese ravioli, too. If you want the usual mozzarella broiled on your veal parmigiana, Fortuna’s will give it to you, but the kitchen has a different cheese in mind. In a world of weak copies, Fortuna’s is a beacon of authenticity. (Later today for paid subscribers.)

EVENTS

Healthy Options Week: Local restaurants, organized by Independent Health, are inviting customers to find out that healthy food can taste good too.

From March 4-10, more than a dozen local restaurants, ranging from Giacobbi’s Cucina Citta to New Jewel of India, pitch packages for diners looking to eat better.

Find the complete list at heathyoptionsbuffalo.com/restaurantweek.

OPENINGS & CLOSINGS

Spring sign: Mississippi Mudd’s, the ice cream, hot dog, and burger emporium perched on the Niagara River bank in the City of Tonawanda, opened March 2. Which means the robins should be back any day now.

Rin returns: Thai restaurateur Rin Suphankomut once again has a place on the Elmwood Village menu, opening a second spot, Rin Citi at 1020 Elmwood Ave., formerly The Village Juicery.

“We will try to focus on simple food,” since the space won’t have a full kitchen, Suphankomut said. That means salads, soups, sandwiches, boba tea, and two more dishes. Mango salad, pad thai, and more are on offer, and there are six tables for counter service customers.

This is Rin Citi’s soft opening, so if you go, cut them some slack. Her Amherst spot, Rin Thai Bistro, 4446 Main St., remains open.

Cereal Spot finished: The cereal-centered restaurant announced Feb. 20 that its 547 Elmwood Ave. store is permanently closed. Cereal Spot’s food truck will carry on, joined by a second, to serve events. Questions about gift certificates, truck bookings, or what have you should be directed to thecerealspotbuffalo@gmail.com.

FROM THE CRITIC

Vegans assemble: Strong Hearts Buffalo, the vegan restaurant at 295 Niagara St., has launched a support campaign for Guud & Evul Vegan Eats, the vegan restaurant at 21 Main St., City of Tonawanda.

Buy $25 or more at Guud & Evul, bring the receipt to Strong Hearts Buffalo, and Strong Hearts will take 10 percent off your entire bill.

Strong Hearts Buffalo explained its move on Facebook:

“Our friends at GUUD & EVUL Vegan Eats have recently expressed on social media that business has been very slow and they are considering adding animal products to their menu in a last ditch effort to keep the lights on. Being an ethically motivated vegan-for-the-animals business first and foremost, we would really prefer that not to happen. Buffalo is a big enough city for all of the vegan restaurants here to succeed and thrive.”

And they say the Grinch’s heart grew three sizes that day.

MORE READING (compiled by Michael Chelus)

This week on the Nittany Epicurean, I wrote about the 2020 Keuka Spring Vineyards Pinot Noir, the 2019 Grand Napa Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and the Manzanilla La Gitana Sherry.